Climbing

SAS DLES NÖ »Sasso delle Nove«

Sasso delle Nove, or more precisely the south face of Sas dles Nö (2968 m) was first climbed in 1948 by E. Kastlunger and P. Bottaro. Since then 12 routes have become well known.  When the rock wall was opened Reinhold and Günter Messner played a key role. Their »Heidiführe« and »direct« routes are probably the most popular. The difficulty of the routes ranges from level 4 to 6. Some parts can be free climbed and others are level 7.  It is mainly slab climbing on flat solid rock where there are some erosive cracks with carabiners positioned at intervals.

Access to the base of the wall: From Ücia de Fanes on path no. 7 you reach the plateau (at an altitude of 2264 m). Then you proceed without a defined path in a north-westerly direction to the base of the wall senza.
Descent is usually via the »normal route« (see Tour N3 on page 166) or from the top through the ridge down to the gully (cairns) and from there in a southerly direction through a gully (part of which is level II), down to the Pices Fanes plateau.

Parëi de Col Bechei

Parëi de Col Bechei (the south-western and south walls) is the southern outpost of Col Bechei Dessora up to Fanes valley. It is almost a sheer vertical wall made largely of solid dolomite slabs.
Since 2006 the San Vigilio alpine guide Simon Kehrer, along with his colleagues/guests and his wife  Marta have opened another four routes.

The level of difficulty of the routes in this area are well above level V, according to the terrain.

The start from the Fanes Mountain Hut is on the military road to Lé de Limo. At the (Bank - Banca) sign go right after around 150 m proceed along the lake and then turn right into a narrow street then take the gully and continue in a south-easterly direction (cairns), until you reach the imposing wall.  Then follow the climb until the ledges that take you to the start (around 1-1¼ hours from Üćia de Fanes Mountain Hut).
Descent is along the path indicated that leads to Col Bechei de Sora which takes you down to Lé de Limo in around 20 minutes.

The representation of the paths in the image is greatly simplified and gives you a rough idea. Mores precise sketches of the routs are available on the following sites:

www.planetmountain.com – www.simon-kehrer.it – www.ramellasergio.it

Spalti di Col Bechei

Spalti de Col Bechei are connected to the valley by Parëi de Col Bechei. This extraordinary wall was discovered by climbers from Cortina d’Ampezzo at the beginning of the 80s.

Kofler Michael, Gietl Manuel and Florian Wenter opened a new path on Sasso delle Nove with an exciting climb on slabs with a difficulty of up to level 7. According to the first climbers it is a dream, as the name suggests!

Somnium

Sasso delle Nove in Fanes provides almost unique climbing in the Dolomites: slab climbing on the best rock that only the view of the summit ridge of the mountain at an altitude of 2968 m can beat.

Somnium paths is very safe yet requires good technique!

First climbers: Kofler Michael, Gietl Manuel and Florian Wenter 2017-2018
Equipment: 10 Express and 1-2 medium Friends
For hooking up: a perforated support and intermediate hooks
Start: N 46.6279143 E 11.9800431
Descent: to the right of the summit in a rubble chute 3 times abseiling or via ferratas
Character: climbing on slabs
Difficulty: level 7
Orientation: South